Summer is road trip season, and we’ve been enjoying a few of our annual adventures through Mississippi and the backroads South! These uncharted and somewhat unplanned treks have become a favorite part of our family’s summer activities. Last week, my sweet Elisha even told me that the car trips have been some of the best activities of summer so far. And, what’s not to love, with enjoying games and movies in the car, exploring 2-lane highways, experiencing new scenery, and exploring, shopping and eating in out-of-the-way places? My children hardly even blink an eye now when I pull off to photograph something or take a detour just to see what’s there. For our first road trip this summer, we decided to drive over to Clarksdale, Mississippi to see what we could find at the crossroads of Hwy 61 and 49. I thought I’d share three of our favorite Clarksdale experiences and some of the sights in watercolor sketches and photos…
Summer in the Delta seems to carry the weight of the dusty, blazing sun. That strong, hazy light colors everything and makes it easy to guess how the blues may have been born. Our main reason for setting out to Clarksdale that Wednesday was to see the Delta Blues Museum, so after a few detours through Eupora and Greenwood, we made it to the crossroads and found the museum in the old Freight Depot on Blues Alley. There is so much rich music history in the Mississippi Delta and in Clarksdale in particular, and the community really celebrates it. Delta Blues Museum was a fun mix of Blues memorabilia and history, including posters and photos of the world-renown artists who have come to the area to play with legends like Muddy Waters, John Lee Hooker, and more.
From stage costumes and a host of custom guitars and personal artifacts of musicians like B.B. King, Charlie Musselwhite and Big Joe Williams to the unusual folk art of Son Thomas and pieces of history from legendary blues clubs, the museum has a lot to offer. The newer Muddy Waters wing features footage of documentaries on the singer, and the preserved Muddy Waters cabin moved to the site from Stovall Farms in 2001. Among our favorite finds at the museum… Son Thomas’ “woman in coffin” carving, a hand-made cross-shoulder harmonica holster, and the guitars made from scrap wood and other found objects. An eclectic experience of the Mississippi blues in sights and sounds!
For music and folk art, Cathead on Delta Avenue is the place to stop in Clarksdale. Any spot that welcomes me for a “downhome Christmas” even on a 95-degree Wednesday in June is my kind of place! With Mississippi-made posters and folk art, local-inspired books, memorabilia, and of course, vinyl (my weakness), Cathead is a one-stop shop for all things Mississippi Blues. But, more than than, the shop serves as the unofficial go-to source for information on where to go in Clarksdale – and more importantly, where to listen! Cathead owner, Roger Stolle, was quick to share that there is live music practically every night in Clarksdale, and he offered up their weekly “Sounds Around Town” calendar to prove it.
No visit to Clarksdale is complete without a stop at the iconic Ground Zero Blues Club, founded by Morgan Freeman, Bill Luckett, and Howard Stovall. The club is open for lunch and dinner and boasts live music from locals and legends alike every Wednesday through Saturday nights. We stopped in for lunch, where virtually every square inch of surface is covered with signatures and hand-written messages from the legions of folks who’ve visited the joint. We couldn’t resist taking a picture up on stage, and enjoying great downhome burgers and sides from a menu boasting all things fried! I had the Jukin Blues Burger because… fried onion strings and gitback sauce. Need I say more?
We loved our visit to these Clarksdale spots, and found a few others we want to explore for more than a passing glimpse on the next trip… Hopson Plantation Commissary, Yazoo Pass Bistro & Bakery (we did sample a mean Mango smoothie there), Hooker Hotel, the storefront converted to Airbnb on 2nd Street, and Deak’s Harp Store, where we might have to invest in a harmonica… because, when in Clarksdale.
With every small town we visit or backroads trek we undertake, I’m always intrigued by capturing two things… the quintessential local downtown experience – the icons of commercial life, no matter how fading or broken, and words and pictures on walls – the murals, hand-painting, and iconic signs that show how a community marks itself with ingenuity. This trip was no different, and Clarksdale offers so much heritage, an amalgamation of influences from the 1860s, 1960s, and of course, music, music, music. I’ll save more of those photos for other posts to come. Meanwhile, we’re savoring these Delta experiences and already planning for our next trip to be an overnight adventure.
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Hello & welcome! I’m Haley Montgomery, and I’m the designer and owner of 
